In the heart of Dublin’s Grafton Street, a sweet piece of history has returned to Bewley’s Café after a 20-year absence.

The beloved Mary Cake, once a staple of this iconic establishment, is back on the menu—thanks to an extraordinary tale of detective work, chance connections, and family legacy.

A Cullinary Mystery Solved

For two decades, the exact recipe for the Mary Cake—a miniature tower of rich chocolate filling atop a sponge base, encased in chocolate and crowned with marzipan—was thought to be lost forever.

Despite numerous attempts to recreate its distinctive flavour from memory, the authentic taste remained elusive until a remarkable connection between two granddaughters changed everything.

Hazel Carmichael, confectioner and granddaughter of Victor Bewley (founder of Bewley’s Grafton Street), began a determined quest to resurrect this cherished dessert.

Her search led her to Carolina Malagon, whose grandfather Henry Spelter had created the original Mary Cake after arriving in Ireland from Hungary in 1956.

From Budapest to Dublin: A Story of New Beginnings

Henry Spelter had fled Budapest on foot, following the Hungarian Uprising, seeking safety and opportunity in a new land.

The Bewley family, understanding this journey intimately—having come to Ireland as newcomers themselves—offered training and employment to Spelter and other Hungarians when they arrived in Ireland.

This act of welcome aligned perfectly with the family’s Quaker principles, which had guided their approach to supporting people seeking new beginnings in Ireland since 1840.

The Collaborative Detective Work

When Hazel was tasked by Cól Campbell of Bewley’s to recreate the original Mary Cake, she embarked on a fascinating investigation to uncover the secret of its distinctive chocolate filling that didn’t require refrigeration.

Her research revealed that the Mary Cake was born from an after-work collaboration between Mr. Spelter and Hazel’s great-uncle Alfred.

They had adapted a Hungarian Marika Cake recipe to suit Irish tastes, with assistance from a young baker named Barney (who was later to become Bewley’s head baker).

Hazel’s search for Mr. Spelter led to the bittersweet discovery that he had passed away in the United States at age 95, just one week before she found him. However, through his obituary, which mentioned his pride in working at Bewley’s, Hazel left a message of condolence—a digital breadcrumb that would lead to a crucial connection.

A month later, Carolina contacted Hazel. As it turned out, Carolina was equally fascinated by the cake her grandfather had continued to make in America using local ingredients, keeping meticulous notes on the recipe.

Carolina Malagon and Hazel Carmichael at the re-launch of the iconic Mary Cake at Bewley’s Cafe in Dublin Picture: Conor McCabe.

The Final Piece of the Puzzle

Despite their combined efforts, one mystery remained: the exact use of cream in the cake.

The breakthrough came when Hazel discovered a Bewley’s Bakery cost ledger from the 1970s listing the ingredients in bulk quantities.

This revealed that her Uncle Alfred had replaced the original Hungarian cream with butter and added high-quality chocolate—the final secret to the Mary Cake’s distinctive taste.

“I feel like I’ve been treading in the footsteps of my great uncle as I’ve researched, tested and redeveloped the Mary Cake recipe. I’ve repeated what Alfred and Henry did 65 years ago—taken a Hungarian Marika recipe and adapted it for the Irish palate of the day.”

Hazel Carmichael, confectioner and granddaughter of Victor Bewley.

A Sweet Legacy with Purpose

The Mary Cake’s return to Bewley’s menu has a meaningful purpose. With each cake sold, €1  is donated to the Irish Red Cross, supporting their work with people seeking safety in Ireland.

This delectable dessert is more than just a treat for the taste buds—it’s a testament to what can happen when skills and heritage are recognised and given an opportunity to flourish across cultures and generations.

For cake enthusiasts and those who appreciate stories of cultural exchange and resilience, the Mary Cake offers a sweet taste of history with every bite.

Visit Bewley’s Café on Grafton Street to experience this rediscovered treasure and be part of its continuing legacy.