A Hungarian cake with a remarkable Irish story will be honoured this St Patrick’s Day at a prestigious diplomatic gathering in Budapest.

The beloved Mary Cake, created by Hungarian refugee Henry Spelter who fled to Ireland following the Hungarian Uprising in the 1950s, will take centre stage at a reception hosted by Irish Ambassador Ragnar Almqvist.

More than 300 diplomats and politicians will have the opportunity to taste this fabled dessert that has become a treasured part of Dublin’s culinary heritage at Bewley’s Café on Grafton Street.

From Budapest to Dublin: A Recipe of Refuge

Mary Cake’s journey to Ireland began in 1956 when Henry Spelter arrived as a refugee from Hungary. Bewley’s, whose family had also come to Ireland as refugees, offered training and employment to Spelter and other Hungarian newcomers.

The talented confectioner collaborated with Alfred Bewley to adapt his traditional recipe for the café. The delicate dessert quickly became a customer favourite and remained so for decades.

The Mystery of the Missing Mary Cake

For 20 years, the Mary Cake was lost to time. During extensive renovations at Bewley’s Grafton Street, the recipe vanished without a trace.

Despite numerous attempts, no one could recreate the delicate balance of flavours and textures that made the original so special. The cake that had delighted generations of Dubliners seemed destined to remain only in memory.

A Tale of Two Granddaughters

After two decades, the mystery of the missing recipe was solved thanks to an unlikely collaboration.

Hazel Carmichael, granddaughter of Bewley’s founder Victor Bewley and a confectioner by trade, embarked on a quest to revive the lost recipe. Her search led her across the Atlantic to New York, where she tracked down Carolina Malagon, Henry Spelter’s granddaughter.

Hazel Carmichael of Hazel’s Cake Studio in Rickmansworth, Hertfordshire:

“It was so wonderful to meet Carolina in 2022 because she could share with me Henry’s handwritten recipes and the notes he had kept. Through her, I learned more about the opportunity that Bewley’s gave to Henry and it was humbling to hear what that seemingly small thing meant for their family.”

Carolina Malagon, Hazel Carmichael and Cól Campbell of Bewley’s at the re-launch of the iconic Mary Cake at Bewley’s Cafe. Picture: Conor McCabe.

A Sweet Homecoming

The Mary Cake – mini towers of rich chocolate filling on a sponge base, encased in chocolate and topped with a disc of marzipan.- made its triumphant return to Bewley’s Grafton Street in 2022, when the two granddaughters met for the first time to celebrate the relaunch.

Now, they will reunite again in Budapest, bringing the cake full circle to its Hungarian roots.

This St Patrick’s Day celebration marks not just the cake’s heritage, but also the enduring connection between Ireland and Hungary through this sweet symbol of refuge and opportunity.

Col Campbell, current owner of Bewley’s, reflects on the significance of the Mary Cake’s journey:

“The Bewley family came to Ireland as refugees and the business, founded on Quaker principles, has been helping Ireland’s new arrivals since 1840.

The original cakes have been brought back to life by Bewley’s and one euro from every purchase goes to support the Irish Red Cross.

At a time of significant unrest, it seems fitting to celebrate all the good the Mary Cake represents – as well as its dual citizenship – on St Patrick’s Day in Budapest.”

The Bewley’s team and the Campbell family will be represented at the celebrations by Oscar Campbell, part of the management team at Bewley’s Grafton Street, continuing a legacy of hospitality and cultural exchange that has defined this Dublin institution for generations.